Parts of Tehran are blanketed in snow, a stark contrast to the dark skies and black rain that fell just days before due to air strikes on oil depots. Despite the ongoing war, life continues in the Iranian capital.

Sahar, a woman in her 20s, shared with us how she spends her days sheltering at home in Tehran. Cooking, reading, and playing a life simulation video game have become her routine. "I think my creativity has increased during the war. I'm constantly stressed and end up building prettier homes in the game," she explained.

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Tragically, on the same day, Sahar learned of the death of a former schoolmate whose body has yet to be found. "I felt horrible after hearing it," she said. "Why do we have to experience such horror when we're in the prime years of our youth? I just want this to end before Nowruz. My favorite days in life are the early days of spring." Fewer than ten days remain until Nowruz, the Persian New Year festival, a time traditionally filled with family gatherings and celebrations.

However, this year feels different in Tehran. "It doesn't feel like the run-up to Nowruz. But even under missiles, we carry on living. We have no choice but to live," said Peyman, a man in his 30s. He added, "The metro is empty. So empty that for every person, there are 30 or 40 empty seats. The streets are so quiet you could easily play football in the middle of a street."

Another resident in his 30s remarked, "My sleep schedule depends on the bombings now. I go to sleep at around six or seven in the morning and wake up at 2 pm. Sometimes, I have to go out to buy groceries, but Tehran is very empty." The population of Tehran and its surrounding province is around 14 million, but many have fled to seek safety as strikes from the US and Israel intensified since February 28.

Some residents have headed north toward the Caspian Sea, where there have been fewer attacks. Mina, a woman in her 20s, is one such individual. "My family kept insisting we go to Rasht to stay with my grandmother, but my best friend and flatmate didn't want to leave Tehran. I felt guilty about leaving without her, so I didn't want us to go," she recalled. On the night the oil depots were hit, she described the shaking of their flat and the illuminated windows as if it were morning.

"The day after, we finally went to Rasht, in a car covered with patchy stains from the polluted rain. My best friend decided to stay in Tehran with her family, but I call her every day. We discuss all the exciting things we'll do after the war is over, like maybe dyeing our hair lighter after this," she said.

Communication has been a challenge due to the government's imposed internet blackout since the start of the war. Nevertheless, some tech-savvy residents have turned to Starlink devices to maintain connectivity. These satellite systems offer a vital lifeline, allowing individuals to connect to the outside world despite the risks. Using Starlink in Iran can result in up to two years in prison, and authorities actively search for these devices.

Mehran, a young man living in Tehran, shared that he has been sharing his Starlink connection with at least 25 others. He has hidden the device in a remote location to avoid detection. He mentioned that while he allows loved ones to connect for free, internet access is being sold on the Telegram messaging app for around $6 for 1GB of data, a steep price in a country where the average monthly salary ranges from $200 to $300.

Shima, another woman in her 20s, also uses a Starlink connection and underscored the challenges she faces in securing reliable internet. "You have to buy it from someone you trust; otherwise, there's a chance they will cut off your internet after you've paid a hefty sum," she warned. Monitoring organization NetBlocks reported that the internet blackout in Iran has now reached its 12th day, with connectivity remaining at just 1% of normal levels.

"The ridiculously expensive Starlink VPN I bought for emergencies takes a long time to connect, making me doubt whether it was worth spending so much money," Shima lamented. "But at least I can tell my loved ones abroad that I'm still alive and haven't burned to a crisp."

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Source: Bbc News